Tasting menu 23

We are right in the middle of Denver restaurant week. We are doing a price fix menu at 52.80 for 3 people that has 3 courses. It has been slammin all week. I am just trying to keep up with that menu. I do not have alot of time to experiment this week so I am using some techniques that I am comfortable with. The biggest diffrence is we will not have time to do a table side presentation but the sphere will more then make up for that.

Tasting menu


Baked eggs at 70 Celsius
Tomato, plablano jelly, grilled prosciutto


Smoked blue marlin
Grapefruit, cauliflower, white soy


Chicken skin wrapped sole
Cipollini, cucumber, yogurt


Orange rum sphere
Banana foster crème brulee, frozen carmel powder

How can I be green in the kitchen?

I have done alot of research lately into practices that I can start today that will insure my daughters an opportunity to play with all of the species we enjoy. This is a short list of some things that you can start now:

1. Do not thaw products under water. Can you imagine all of the water the restaurant industry uses quick thawing products. It takes a little planning and implementation of a freezer pull list. Pull your products out early and let them thaw in the walk-in

2.When writing your menus first check the mbay web site to see what seafood is over fished on their list. I have considered asking other chefs to take all tuna products off of their menus for 1 month. Imagine the impact on population if we could do that. I would rather not eat them for 1 month instead of loosing tuna forever. Here is the link to the sight: http://www.mbayaq.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_search.aspx

3. Total utilization. Not only was this a lesson in school but it should be a lesson you practice everyday. This is another reason why molecular cooking is so amazing. For example Alex and Aki from ideas in food compress cilantro stems. This seems like a trivial idea but it is taking a product that is always discarded and turning it into something amazing. Vegetable scraps can be roasted and clarified using gelatin. Pieces of chicken skin can be glued together with activa and used to wrap other proteins for flavor and texture

These are 3 things that you can start today and let me know if you want to do the TUNA boycott!

San Fran

I went to California to attend a demonstration at Le Sanctuare. The demo was from Herve This, the leading authority on molecular gastronomy. I was hoping to pick up some new techniques but instead I have a whole new direction in my experiments. I first learned that I am not doing molecular gastronomy. I practice molecular cooking and there is a huge difference between them. The difference is that Herve is analysing food on a scientific level with very controlled time consuming experiments. I am taking the knowledge that he has developed and I am using it to cook. I also am using some molecular technologies like a thermal circulator to achieve different textures in food

Herve also talked about using a simplified process to write recipes and come up with new dishes. It made me think of food in a whole new way. He talked about and egg that could be classified in the way you would cook it. For example a whole egg is 1, a whole egg out of its shell is 2, The egg yolk is3 and so on. Next is the method in which you cook it like liquid nitrogen would be LN or water would be W and so on. I have a system now where I can organize my experiments and think of new combinations


The biggest lesson I took away is not to be so frustrated. Take a step back and simplify the question. I was trying to make brown butter foam. I was using methocel and xantham and whatever else I could think of. It turns out that is the ratio of fat to water and how you cool the product that will give me the desired texture. No additives, just a better understanding of why food does what it does. Thank you Herve, it is time to start all over again!!!

Tasting menu 22

I just got some little pipets in this week that I will be using on the first course. We are participating in restaurant week that starts on Friday. It will be a slammin week. I am using some Angelica root on the dessert special. It has a earthy flavor and is bright green.

Tasting Menu


Unagi
Avocado, black lime, blackberry ponzu


Feuilles de brick
Lobster, pine nuts, citrus risotto


Sou-vide pork
Mustard, candy apple, cherry balsamic


Angelica root
Passion fruit ice cream made
Tableside with liquid nitrogen

A family business

My family has all worked in this industry at one point. My father is a chef, my mother use to run a resteraunt in Breckenridege when I was a kid. My sister is a hostess and my other sister works pantry at a well known restaurant downtown. Sometimes we swap stories about shit we see. They have a baked alaskan on the menu that they set on fire before they bring it to the table. When one of the waiters picks up the dessert he always tells my sister that "It smells like failure." What a great smart ass remark that you will only get in trenches of the line.

Tasting menu 21

Had a great Valentines day night with about 220 covers. The specials went very well. We only have 2 days for the tasting menu this week. Getting very excited about my trip to San Fran.

Tasting menu
Tempura white asparagus
Coconut, lobster, starfruit puree
Shrimp gelee
Shallots, grated egg, cilantro
Beef shoulder
Butter powder, Beet marshmallow, Broccolini

Quince ginger broth
Pomegranite sorbet made tableside
With liquid nitorgen

San Francisco

I was placing an order with Fanny from Le sanctuare when she told me about this upcoming event. I got my airline tickets today and I can't wait to attend this event


Demonstration and Book Signing with Hervé This
Monday, Feb 25, 10 am - 2 pm at our San Francisco showroom.
Join us for a 4-hour demonstration and discussion with Hervé This, the founder of molecular
gastronomy and longtime collaborator with Chef Pierre Gagnaire, who has been changing the way
the world approaches cooking. His groundbreaking research into the chemistry and physics behind
everyday cooking is widely used by professional chefs worldwide. In his new book Kitchen
Mysteries, he offers further insight into the science of cooking, answering such fundamental
questions as what causes vegetables to change color when cooked and how to keep a soufflé from
falling. He illuminates abstract concepts with practical advice and concrete examples, how sautéing
in butter chemically alters the molecules of mushrooms, for example, and he explains the science
behind tenderizing enzymes and gelatins. Promising to answer your most compelling kitchen
questions, learn how molecular gastronomy has inspired a generation of renowned chefs and make
you a more creative and imaginative cook. This event includes a demonstration with various
equipments by Hervé This himself. Cost: $30 including an autographed book and a 4-hour
demonstration and discussion. Limited seats available. To RSVP call 415.986.4216 or email
info@le-sanctuaire.com

Frozen banana split sphere

I have been working on this new dessert for our next menu. I first juice some strawberries and place 60 cc in a ballon. I fill the ballon with nitrogen gas and roll it in liquid nitrogen This gives me a hallow sphere. I then mix roasted pineapple with a medium peak meringue. We then pipe it into the sphere and let it freeze. The plate is garnished with carmalized banana, chocolate powder and fried rice noodles that are soaked in grenadine.

Broken olives

I wanted to serve some olives on the meat course. We wanted the broken olives to hold a shape on the plate like they were glued together. My experiences with methocel are mixed. I am still figuring out hydration and the differnt types of methocels for different applications. This recipe yields a thick glue like texture that can be mixed with any product and steamed for 1 minute. The methocel gels and holds its shape. You must serve it warm or it will loose it will fall apart.

Recipe

400 grams water

5 grams methocelE4M

Boil water and take it off the stove. Place the methocel and water in a container and mix with the hand mixer. Place the mixture in the walkin and allow it to cool. The water will seperate from the methocel. Mix it again with the hand mixer and a thick gel will form.

An interview

I had a interview with a kid today about the new raw bar position that has opened up. When I asked him his experience he told me that he has shucked oysters before and that he has really big hands. What the fuck does that mean? I have never had anyone tell me that before.

Tatsing menu 20

I have a wine dinner on Saturday that sits at 80 covers right now. I am going to run the same soup for my tasting menu this week that is on the wine dinner menu. Valentines night is pretty well sold out too. We have 5280 week coming up at the end of this month. Business is really picking up. It has been really slow the first part of the year. Other chefs tell me they are busy but when I drive past thier resteraunts they are as slow as us. I never really understood people lying about their business. I guess you never want to show the other guy your cards

Tasting menu

Alaskan king crab
Frankincense, frozen yuzu powder, pomegranate


Organic chicken noodles
Saltine cracker consommé, root vegetable sou-vide


Sou-vide Tasmanian pepper tenderloin
Demi sphere, broken olives, tarragon


Blueberry basil puree
White chocolate ice cream made tableside using liquid nitrogen

tasting menu 19

Tasting menu

Pineapple cous cous, candy ginger, eggplant, coconut

Artichoke puree crispy broccoli, parm air

Sou-vide tiger shrimp
Mandarin orange, puffed rice, avocado


Banana
Bread, syrup, ice cream
Made with liquid nitrogen

Special wine dinner

We are doing a benefit for: Give the Gift of Speech Dinner Benefiting Judy Haigh Speech Rehab Trust on February 9. cost is 150$ with wine.

Wine dinner
February 10
SOLD OUT

Selection of test tubes
Pomegranate, butternut squash, quince

Mandarin orange
Red curry, tiger shrimp, guava

Truffled puffed wild rice in liquid nitrogen

Organic chicken noodles
Saltine cracker consommé, sou-vide root vegetables

Peach sorbet
Merlot caviar, frozen thyme

Organic beer braised pork belly

Cauliflower puree, elephant garlic jam, danelion reduction

Rosemary yuzu pound cake
Blueberry caramel ice cream made with liquid nitrogen

Valentines day 08

I always use the same ingredients when I write the menu for Valentines day. These ingredients have been proven to get the sparks flying if you know what I mean. They are cocoa, asparagus, almonds, avacado, chilies, chocolate, figs, honey and oysters. We will offer our regular dinner menu with these specials:

Appetizer

White Asparagus
Grilled oyster, cotija, warm walnut mayo
$12

Soup

Alaskan crab bisque
Tarragon, Fig caviar, Fig air
$10

Entrée

Sou-vide Maine lobster
Chili, honey consommé, avocado gnocchi
$32

Dessert

Rose pedal syrup
Sexy fruit, almonds, piped chocolate
$8

Tasting menu 18

I am trying some new techniques this week. I have been working on my vegetable purees with the carrgeenan. Peanut butter and jelly has got to be my all time favorite combination

Tasting menu

Greek salad
Olives, tomatoes, oregano

Pineapple consommé
White soy noodles, miso air

Snake River pork belly
Cauliflower, morels, beer

Peanut butter meringue
Jelly ice cream made with liquid nitrogen

Red onion glass

Tasting menu 17

I got the inspiration for the menu this week from my 6 year old daughter. We were at chucky cheese watching a gang of kids swindling the machines for tickets when I asked her her 4 favorite foods. They were Pizza, Mac and cheese, pears and ice cream. These will be my base dishes this week throwing in some tricks.

Tasting Menu

Pizza
Tortilla, tuna, siracha caviar

Mac & cheese
Grilled noodles, king crab, lemon fondue

Pear
Hibiscus foam, pancetta, radish

Sweet corn ice cream made with liquid nitrogen
Candy crimini, frozen tarragon

What is Molecular gastronomy

First I think everyone needs to know this is food and not science fiction. People think we have some kind of lab set up where we a draining blood from cows and ejecting into rabbits. I would define molecular cuisine as cooking and analyzing food on a cellular level. If grilling a piece of fish is not the best way to cook it, why not experiment scientifically to find the best result. I thought traditional ice cream making was the best, but now I will never make ice cream without liquid nitrogen. There is no doubt that it is creamer and has an insane mouth feel. I thought grilled salmon could never be topped but salmon sou-vide at 131 degrees with dill butter and yuzu is the best piece of fish I ever had. Humans are always looking for the next best thing, we never settle. We are always looking for better. That is how our planet evolved to where we are today. To those who say that molecular cooking is a fad I say: try some molecular techniques on your food. You will yield some amazing products. Not everything made this way is good but that is the fun of experimenting and learning. Ounce you stop learning your dead . This is a list of some of the chemicals we use. Next time you are in the supermarket read the ingredient labels. You already consume all of the products we use. All we are doing is using these ingredients in gourmet food applications to enhance textures, flavors and presentations. Have fun and be open

Liquid nitrogen- A colorless, flavorless liquid that has a temperature 0f -320

Gellan- Similar to gelatin but it can be heated and item will keep its structure

Agar- A thickening gelling agent used in the orient for 1000 of years

Activa- A protein glue used to stick different proteins together

Sodium alginate- Used to make caviar. Added to liquid to thicken

Calcium chloride- Used in caviar making to set or cook caviar

Calcium Gluconate- Used in the reverse specification process. Added to liquid and dropped into sodium alginate solution. Sometimes thickened with xantham

Xantham gum- Used to thicken and is added to emulsions so they don’t break

Sodium citrate- The sodium salt of citric acid

Citric acid- An organic acid used to give sour qualities. Can replace lemon juice

Guar gum- A thickening agent and stabilizer works well with xantham

Ascorbic acid- Found in citrus fruits it is excellent for keeping natural colors in blanching

Lecithin- Found in egg yolks it is used to thicken and create air textures. Best when stabilized with xantham

Glucose- Used to help stabilize cooked products to make them stable

Isomalt- A pure form of sugar that won’t crystallize when heated

Glycerin- Properties are like glucose. Used in bubble gum production

Methylcellulose- Derived from plant fibers this product has many different uses. When used in baking, it will help to increase crumb. Other applications are to trick food textures. We have used it in hot ice cream, gnocchi and sour cream noodles.

Tapioca maltodextrin- Used to turn any fat into a powder

Carrageenan- A natural extract from seaweed, used to make incredible textures

Cauliflower chips

We are using these chips on the vegetable tasting course on the menu. They are made by steaming cauliflower for 3 minutes and shocking them. We then slice thin length wise and place them on a silt pad with truffle oil. The chips are baked at 190 degrees for 65 minutes. They come out nicely brown and compliment the dish with a woodsy flavor

Alot of press this week

Fun With Molecular Gastronomy
Insider trading: experts' secrets to the perfect stock
Denver International Wine Festival-Taste of Elegance Competition
Review: Ian Kleinman mixes food and science at O’s in Westminster

Tating menu 16

Had a few days off this week to spend with my girls and my wife. Working on a side project for a friend that is going well. I just got the morimoto cook book. He has some amazing ideas and pictures in his book. When I did the Aspen food and wine festival this last year I got to meet Morimoto and Jean Jeorge,Two of my favorite chefs. The candy salmon technique came from his book with the liquid nitrogen ice cream from our kitchen. Should be a very busy week in hotel. People are starting to travel for business again

Tasting menu

Grilled tuna
Yuzu fruit cocktail, avocado foam

Vegetable tasting
Beet gelee, peeled grape tomatoes, crispy cauliflower,
warm mushrooms in sage Parsnip fries, dried sweet corn sheets

Asian pollen dusted tenderloin tempura
Roasted eggplant, dandelion reduction

Candy Salmon
Crème Frâiché ice cream made tableside with liquid nitrogen

Frozen chocolate air

New menu

It is slow this week in the hotel so we have been working on some new menu items

Shrimp ceviche

Guava ice cream with grilled pineapple and jelly meringue

Cartoon of elbulli spoon and ravioli

Boulder daily camera review

A great review from this Boulder newspaper. http://www.dailycamera.com/news/2008/jan/03/dining-mister-wizard-ian-kleinman-mixes-food-and/

Tatsing menu 15

Had a huge new years eve. It was a little sketchy doing so much molecular at ounce. We are used to doing 4 dishes and this was around 25. A good lesson I will use when I write a menu for my next large event. I got a camera so I won't be using my camera phone anymore (hopefully an improvement)

Tasting menu 15


Avocado Noodles
Scallop ceviche, tomatillo, piped tomato

English Pea Soup
Carrot caviar, shaved toast

Buffalo Short Rib
Elephant garlic jam, corn, blackberry

Honey Lavender Baklava
Curry coconut ice cream made with liquid nitrogen

Westword memories

Jason gave us a nice mention in this week westword relating some of his food memories from the last year. http://www.westword.com/2007-12-27/dining/memoriesI was also fortunite enouph to have Jason and Patrica from Westword along with some other guest for a molecular lunch yesterday.

144.4 degree egg salad sanwich with compressed tomato, elephant garlic chip and tasmanian pepper

Rocky mountain news

Marty called from the rocky mountain news asking for some molecular picks. These are the dishes I came up with. We have also had travel magazine, wine country international, dinning out and the boulder daily camera up the last couple weeks with articles coming out in January.

Strawberry daiquiri and banana rum dippin dots

Beet vinaigrette sphere with balsamic goat cheese, roasted vegetables and carrot/watercress puree

Tatsing menu 14

I have alot of reservation this week for the menu and a mostly molecular menu for New Years Eve. It is snowing hard today with about a foot of snow on the ground. I am in the mood for risotto, bisque, crepes.

Tasting menu 14

Baby squid
Cotija, risotto, oyster mushrooms

Cauliflower bisque
Truffle, augratin, watercress air


Sou-vide salmon and roasted garlic
Scallion, funnel cake, Sweet red bean

Hungarian crepe
Almonds, milk, chocolate ice cream made with liquid nitrogen

Merry Christmas

My chef called me the other day and asked what cook book I wanted. I asked any cookbook and he said yes. I told him elbulli 2003 and 2004. I never thought he would actually order it but it came to the hotel this morning. I know what I will be doing the next 3 months or so.

Grilled potrebella jelly

I have started to use agar a little more in my cooking. When I first used it I was not cutting it with another gelling agent so it was effecting the flavor of the food. Now I use 1 or 2 other gelling agents and have achieved some very nice jellies. This jelly will be served with the New York for New Years Eve. Here is the recipe

4 ea Caps portebella cleaned, grilled and julienned
2 cups Apple juice
1 cup Brown sugar
2 ea Red jalapenos roasted and diced
1 oz Elephant garlic, roasted and pureed
2 tbl Salt
2 sheets Gelitan bloomed in cold water
1 gram Agar

Place all ingredients in a stock pot and boil for 6 minutes. Place in the cooler to set

New years eve

The one night in this business when your whole kitchen is cooking a whole menu for the first time. We decided to do a price fix menu this year for 50.oo. The guest picks one dish from each section. We will probaly do around 220 that night times 3 courses each. I am making some items now to make sure they work out that night. Better now than in the rush. Here is our menu

First Course

Point Reyes Blue Cheese
Peanut butter wrapped grapes, Alsace caviar, whipped balsamic
$
Olive oil poached baby artichokes
Warm parmesan mayonnaise, Shrimp “scampi” Elephant garlic chips
$
Wild mushroom Ravioli
“Rockin farms” brown egg, pine nut glass, scallion pesto
$
“Vegetables from the garden”
$
Smoked blue marlin sashimi
Carbonated ginger jelly, frozen wasabi oil, pickled radish
$
Compressed farm tomatoes
Pancetta blue cheese marble, balsamic caviar, Green goddess
$
Smoked Cheddar Broth
Roasted Colorado potatoes, Rosemary Sour Cream Noodle, Crispy chive
$
Organic Greens
Pineapple and ricotta, Grilled almonds, red orchard apples
$
English pea
Rosemary, pepper crème Frâiché
$

Main Course

“Snake River” Pork loin
Grilled apple sauce gelee, Sage spatzel, burnt onion cream
$
King Salmon
Edamame flan, yuzu butter, eggplant
$
“Fulton family farms” Organic chicken
Mustard and Vanilla, Pancetta hash, Rosemary air
$
Buffalo New York
Brussel Sprouts, Rosti potato, matsutake
$
Rainbow Trout Steak

Compressed watermelon, puffed wild rice, papaya
$
“Tuna Casserole”smoked egg noodles, English pea chips, wild mushroom yogurt
$
Smoked Colorado Sirloin
Leek, Crispy cannelloni beans, merlot
$
Shrimp Noodles
Baby artichoke, Shitake, Peas
$
Wild mushroom baklava
Goat cheese grits, Sou-vide garden vegetable quiche
$

Desserts

Rosemary # cake
Chocolate, yogurt, Liquid Nitrogen strawberries
$
Banana crème brulee tart
Hot ice cream
$
Peanut butter and chocolate
10 layers, jelly daqouis
$
Eggnog cheesecake
Cranberry compote, brown sugar whipped cream

Special party

I keep making the same dish over and over until I am happy with the flavors and presentation. I seem to have a hard time walking away from anything. I was asked to do a molecular 9 course menu set on a chef's table in the kitchen last night. I picked dishes I have made and remade to get them to this point. It was one of the best dinners I have ever done and I am enjoying cooking ounce again.

Compressed Tomato
Blue cheese marble, pancetta, balsamic caviar

King Salmon
Yuzu butter, edamame flan, Artichoke

Smoked gouda Broth
Sour cream noodles, Roasted carrots, chive

Liquid nitrogen truffle popcorn

Blue crab
Sweet corn, celery leaves, Camembert, Raspberry chips

144.4 degree egg
Walnut mayo, dijon, hallah

Buffalo New york
Butter powder, Hibiscious, Rosti potato

Mustard and Vanilla Organic Chicken Sou-vide
Pancetta hash, Rosemary air

Cranberry, Mint
Eggnog Ice cream made tableside with Liquid Nitrogen

Sou-vide

I don't have a commercial vacuum sealer. I bought a food saver at target and it does an OK job with my sou-vide bags. It does not have enough pressure to compress which is the most interesting technique that I have seen with this piece of machine. I can still get a good marination using this sealer but have to come up with creative ways to package. This sealer will suck liquid out when the vacuum is on in turn giving you a leaky, non-compressed seal.

The way to do it is make sure everything is solid in the bags and not in a liquid form.

For the compressed tomato I froze my olive oil in liquid nitrogen giving me a solid texture and enabling the tomatoes to achieve a solid seal when vacuumed.

To do these carrots I made a compound butter with sesame oil instead of pouring the oil in the bag. Cilantro was added and cooked at 120.2 degrees for 45 minutes.

Edamame flan

We are writing new years eve menus that will focus on molecular cuisine. We are doing a price fixed menu this year at 50.00 3 courses. One component is a edamame flan that will go with the salmon. Here is the recipe.

Ingredients

2# Edamame blanched and shocked

8 oz Vegetable stock

4 ea Eggs

2 cups Milk

3 tbl. Salt

2 tbl. Toasted curry

1/4 cup May ploy

Place the edamame and vegetable stock in a blender. Pulse until a puree has formed but some of the beans are still whole. Place in a bowl and mix in the remainder of the ingredients. Place in heat proof ramikins and place in a water bath. Cook for 45 minutes at 275 degrees or when the custard is set.