





I was asked by chef Corey to come do a demo at the culinary school I graduated from in 1997. They have started a new class called Art Cullinare where they study and then learn the techniques of the best molecular chefs. Their first day was El bulli, Alinea and The Fat Duck. We agreed that I would come make a composed dish using some different hydrocollids and the thermal circulator. I would then talk about some techniques using liquid nitrogen. My demo came on the Monday after Thanksgiving. We had not received our normal shipment of LN due to the holiday. There is a small airgas store pretty close to the culinary school so my plan was to stop over in the middle of my demo to fill my small dewar. Everything that could have gone wrong did. My thermal circulator would not work. This was the base for the composed dish. To make it even worse the shop were I went to fill the tank had the same problem, they did not receive there shipment due to the holiday. A good chef will always figure the situation out. I poached the eggs in water, not the same texture but they got the point. As for the LN, I talked about its physical properties and what I use it for. I will go back to the school on Monday so they can actually try something. All I could do is shake my head, smile and get through it. No matter how much planning goes into a event there is always something that will go wrong. The trick is not letting the guest know there is anything wrong.


If you have ever lived in Colorado or watched the news on your way through town you probably recognize this guy, Bill Clarke. He was a news anchor for many years at channel 7. Bill is retired from TV, now he does some side projects for different media outlets in Colorado. Bill asked me if he could bring up some kitchen gadgets that he ordered off those late night infomercials. I have always wanted to know if the electric vegetable peeler really works or if the slider grill made perfect paddies. We had a blast trying some different gadgets. The only one that really worked was a microwavable pasta cooker. The story will be coming out in the Rocky Mountain News Spotlight section in the next 2 weeks. 

Fried baby artichokes
Caper dirt, warm walnut mayo, garlic sugar

To make this texture I first took coconut milk, coconut powder and honey and gelled it with agar. We then made a mixture of white soy, sake, mirin and yuzu and reduced it by 1/2. I then added a .45% ratio of hydrated Gellan F. We then flash froze the coconut cubes in liquid nitrogen. The gellan soy mixture is served in a craft on the side. The guest takes the craft of hot soy and pours it over the frozen coconut cubes. The gellan in the soy changes the consistency of the sauce to loose jelly.
Liquid nitrogen effects different structures in foods. Porous structures like rice crispy treats and marshmallows trap small amounts of nitrogen gas inside them. If you eat someting that has nitogen gas trapped inside, it looks like you have dragon smoke flying out. Solid structures like vegetables will freeze solid and shatter when left in nitrogen to long. I wanted my ratatouille to beable to hold nitorgen in its stucture. To make it I cut the vegetables into 1 inch cubes and tossed them in herbs, olive oil and salt. I then dehydrated them for 12 hours. Next we sliced romas and put them in the dehydrator for 24 hours. They then went into the spice grinder and were turned into a fine powder. I then tossed the dried vegetables with the tomato powder and froze them in LN.
The neutral caramel was one of the first recipes I tried out of El Bulli. As with all of the other recipes, it is impossible to do unless you have the right equipment ( In this case a spice grinder). This neutral caramel is made by cooking isomalt, glucose, rice wine vinegar and fondant to the hard crack stage. After the sugar is cool I put it in a spice grinder and made a fine dust. I then put the mixture through a fine sieve onto the transfer sheet. We then took a torch and very carefully melted the sugar onto the sheet. After the sheet is cool the sugar will peel right off with the pattern of the transfer sheet. It then can be melted onto any food as a garnish 
Believe it or not I saw this on the kid segment on David Letterman the other night. The kid poured liquid nitrogen on some soap bubbles and it exploded into layers of foam streaming down the side of the container. Could this be copied using edible ingredients? I first tried egg white and xantham. The weight of the nitrogen hitting the bubbles broke every one. I then tried a lecithin combination. Again the force of the nitrogen was too great. I then tried a mixture of gum base and glycerin. I then used a air pump to start the bubbles. This structure was able to hold up when the nitrogen was poured on it. The next step is how to use this in a dish. 
We are really starting to feel the dip in the economy. The good news is our weekend business has been very strong. We sold 43 tasting menus last week. It is time for me to crawl back into my shell again. I have my best ideas when I don't look at a lot of food media. We are going to make head cheese next weeks menu. I have not made it before but our Executive sous Scott did it a few times. The inspiration for the ice cream this week comes from Ideas in Food's article in Popular Science
I snuck a little bite of my daughters popcorn ball on Halloween and it reminded me of a popcorn I use to serve for lunch at the Hilltop bistro. This recipe uses some rice seasoning made of bonito flakes that you can pick up in any Asian market.
We have been doing a lot of smoking since we got our smoking gun. I like trolling through our drug free work environment here at the hotel with a giant bowl and lighter, I get some pretty classic second looks. We have had some great success smoking liquids. For the menu this week I wanted to create a creamy texture to go along with our Kobe steak this week.
We work in a very dangerous profession. I have had some bad kitchen accidents. My major accident happened when I was 17. I was breaking the line when another cook dropped boiling pasta water down my leg. As I peeled my pants off my skin went with it. I spent 2 days in the ER and 2 months in therapy. I have also had numerous stitches and third degree burns in my career. Yesterday I was making pumpkin noodles for the tasting menu. When I was filling a tube the hot mixture exploded into my eye. I ended up with second degree burns to my cornea. Normal people would take the day off but I have a VIP party today and the competition tonight. My Halloween costume has been decided for me this year. I will be a pirate hahahahaha
I love a good compound butter on steak. The problem is if the kitchen or waitstaff timing is off, you might end up with a pool of broken butter by the time it reaches the table. I wanted to make a container that would allow the guest to control when the butter was applied to the steak. I thought about a chapstick container and how you can regulate how much product comes out. I got some clean chapstick tubes and filled it with the compound butter. Now the guest can control exactly how much butter goes on their steak
Last tomatoes from my garden
I read an article recently when Heston from the Fat Duck talked about how are memories effect how we enjoy our meals. It is impossible to know how a persons eating habbits are when they are growing up. What did their mom make for a after school snack? Did their mom like shake and bake or was she more of a griller. I have served a dish to people who swear it taste like something their mom used to make. As chefs we either build a food memory or remind someone of a meal in their past. It is amazing how one meal can effect someone so much. Along those lines lucky charms is a food memory for me. This week we will do a breakfast dessert with this lucky charms ice cream that is garnished with nitro cereal.


Smoked olive oil poached line caught tuna
Black garlic pesto, macadamia nuts, pea shoots
Roasted plum vinaigrette sheet
Portabella, dry corn powder, mache
NY wrapped tenderloin
Blueberry, pumpkin au gratin, chocolate
Sugar poached egg on French toast
Lucky charms ice cream
Made table side with liquid nitrogen
Coconut bubble gum
I have been on a taco shell kick the past couple of months. I think it is a form that everyone is comfortable with. I wanted to make a shell using foie. I used a old tweel recipe and substituted some foie for butter. The trick is keeping ever thing emulsified and adding the egg whites in stages so you don't break the batter. The batter must be chilled overnight and spread very thin when it is cooked. I had to use a ounce scale for the recipe, my new gram scale should be coming any day.
Kampachi sashimi
Tobiko noodles, rice wine foam, soy dippin dots
Compressed ratatouille vegetables
Spicy octopus, fried olives, yogurt aioli
Blood orange space foam
Sou-vide truffle honey and organic chicken
Artichoke macaroni, brussel sprouts, tarragon air
Coffee crepe filled with amaretto mousse
Served with brown sugar ice cream
Made tableside with liquid nitrogen
I like to cook for kids, more then grumpy adults. They are so open to trying new things. We made strawberry ice cream and 40 second chocolate cake for the kids in my daughters pre-school class. I always wonder what will these kids eat when they are my age. Will we still have all of the choices we enjoy today?
